Friday, April 23, 2010

Glacier Walking

Following the weekend spent climbing Mt. Fyffe, things slowed down a bit around the University of Canterbury. The next week a smaller group rented a car and attempted to drive to Nelson Lakes National Park to do a bit of hiking, but alas, the car broke down and Nelson was never reached (not to mention the inevitable conflict with the rental company regarding reimbursement).

If one can believe it, the final week and weekend of March was spent in an even more depressing fashion; several essays and one midterm were the only things that stood in the way of freedom.

See, the wonderful thing about the particular course of study being pursued here at Canterbury, other than the ease of the classes, is their Easter holiday. Or, more appropriately titled, their April hiatus.

Following the end of lectures on Thursday, April 1, classes were on break until Monday, April 26. Yes, that's correct; their Easter break nearly spans the entire month of April.

Incredible.

As a result, it is only natural to expect that trips of the most epic and grand scale were meticulously planned. And this would be somewhat accurate. Somewhat.

Accurate in the sense that while a series of fairly impressive trips were devised, to say that anything was "meticulously" planned would be a great overstatement. The most successful plans were excitedly outlined over bagged wine and beers, with infinite variations and proposals that were certain to never come to fruition.

But from the tangle of drunken whims, adventures were planned. And, most impressive of all, many were actually executed.

Following a quiet evening on April 1, everyone parted ways Friday morning, some to reconvene throughout the country and others not to see each other for nearly a month.

The first of these quests will takes place in Fox Glacier, a small town on the west coast of the southern island of New Zealand, approximately 400 kilometers from Christchurch. As the name of the township built almost exclusively for tourism implies, a large glacier is the main attraction of the area.

So, leaving late in the afternoon on Friday, April 2, with the number of travelers having been weened down to just three, Christchurch gradually disappeared from view from the rear window as the newly purchased Blue Thunder stormed its way towards the west coast.

NOTE: Blue Thunder is the name of the 1991 Mitsubishi/Nissan that was purchased shortly before Easter break for the steep sum of $800 NZD. But that was split four ways, so it really only came out to $200 NZD per person. And, again, this was NZD and not U.S. currency, meaning it really came out to about $35.64 in American dollars.

No, really.

No, not really.

Either way, the Blue Bolt was up for the challenge, transporting everyone the 400 kilometers in just over five hours. Despite the narrow and winding mountain roads, Blue Wave deftly maneuvered through every turn, avoiding the crash and fiery death that would have ensued if not for the abilities of the driver.

Arriving at Fox Glacier on Friday evening, the crew quickly sought out a suitable camping area for the evening and assembled Frank, the lone tent brought for the trip. Despite the damp conditions on this night, Frank succeeded in keeping everyone warm and dry, and when the sun began to rise early on Saturday morning, the travelers arose, packed up and ate quickly, and were then off to begin the conquest of the glacier.

As safety precautions do not permit anyone to simply wander onto the glacier alone, a guide must be booked in advance in order to traverse the actual surface of Fox Glacier. Though this violated one of the main tenets of the group's traveling philosophy - never spend money - an exception was made for this unique experience.

Gathering the gear that was provided for the glacier walk, the group was now ready to board the shuttle that would take them to the base of the glacier for their excursion. Excitement bubbled over as they stopped for a quick photograph prior to departure.



Seriously pumped.

After a brief ride on the shuttle, the crew stepped off the bus and into a valley formed by the movements of the glacier over time. In front of them the glacier loomed, daring them to take their chances on its deep crevasses and hidden dangers.



Passing beyond a rope that forbid groups without the aide of a guide to cross, the reality of what was unfolding began to set in. A poor step on a glacier would result in one slipping, which may not initially seem to be extraordinarily dangerous. However, when one considers the nature of a glacier, the risks become more clear.

If a person is to fall while walking on a glacier, they will obviously crash down onto ice. More than just ice, though, there is water constantly running down and around the glacier. This ensures that ice is constantly being smoothed over, with any imperfections or footprints erased with ease. This is where the problems can arise.

Once one has fallen onto the ice, they will inevitably slide, as Fox Glacier is basically a mountain of ice in that it rises steeply as a mountain does. And they will slide very quickly, with little to nothing to grab on to in order to slow their momentum. As previously mentioned, there are many crevasses to be found throughout Fox Glacier; falling into such a crevasse will certainly result in a serious injury, with the potential for death, of course.

In addition to the crevasses, glaciers often contain holes in the surface known as moulins. Varying in their width and depth, some moulins found on Fox are large and deep enough that, theoretically, if a person was to fall into one, they may not be seen again. Alive, anyways.

The presence of a guide made more and more sense with every bit of knowledge gained.

Instead of hopping directly onto the glacier, it was first necessary to ascend a bit through the surrounding forest. And this was bizarre.

Though there was an enormous glacier staring the travelers in the face, they disappeared into the trees off to the left and began to climb the steep path that would lead them to a safe position to finally "board" the glacier.

A dense rain forest, it was hardly what one would have expected to find next to an enormous mass of ice. Unless that person was a geologist. Perhaps then this would have made sense to them.




Finally bursting out of the bush, the glacier was once more visible. Winding up through the valley, it extended beyond the eye's ability to see, wrapping and twisting up and to the right.


One enormous benefit to springing for the guided glacier walk was undoubtedly the equipment that was provided. Fitting everyone with a pair of rugged boots and matching crampons, the prospect of walking on a sheet of sheer ice was made much easier.


Little more than a row of spikes that attach to the bottom of a pair of boots, crampons are amazing in the amount of support and traction they generate while walking on ice. Though the glacier was coated in a thin layer of water that stretched across its entirety, the crampons made it possible to walk as if it were any other mountain trail.

Finally getting onto the ice, the first thing that became obvious was the color of the glacier. As explained by the guide, because the day was slightly overcast, its true appearance was on full display.



Rather blue, no?

As Jono, the glacier guide, explained, glaciers only appear as white due to the effects of the sun; with its rays beating down on the ice, the sun's brightness is reflected off of the glacier's surface, generating the white coloring that is expected of a glacier. However, with the sun not a factor on this day, the ice was able to be observed in its true form. Very beautiful.


After a few slow minutes of adjusting to walking with the crampons, the trek up Fox Glacier began. While the glacier had appeared to be steep from its base, its texture seemed to be relatively smooth. Once on the actual surface, however, it became clear that its terrain was much more complex than anticipated.

Jono was diligent in his duties, leading the way with ice axe in hand, pausing every so often to hack up the ice in order to create more traction for the less experienced travelers. And given the daunting nature of the initial ascent up Fox Glacier, they were more than happy to let him lead.



As the elevation rose and more and more steps were taken with the crampons, confidence grew. Before anyone realized it, the group had traveled far above the initial valley and were now at a considerable height, able to view their surroundings much more clearly.

The effect of the overcast skies, the canyon walls overflowing with waterfalls, and the shocking blue of the glacier combined to produce an impressive scene.


After a brief stop for lunch in the middle of the glacier, the group pressed forward for a bit more. It was then that Jono made a great discovery.

As glaciers are constantly melting and moving, their composition changes almost daily. With this in mind, it is no surprise why Jono was overcome with excitement after stumbling upon an ice chute that he had never seen before.

Taking a few moments to ensure that it was safely navigable, one by one the group dropped down into this tunnel, slightly hesitant yet thoroughly excited.


Once through this initial slide, the highlight of the trip revealed itself.


About ten to twenty feet in length, this tunnel was not suitable for those suffering from claustrophobia. But really, simply incredible.

Realizing that the tunnel was unlikely to be topped, and that the sun was beginning its downward plunge towards the horizon, Jono led the group slowly back towards the rain forest and its path. Before departing Fox Glacier for good, however, several more photographs were taken in an effort to preserve the moment indefinitely.




Winding back through the forest, the group entered the valley once again and began the short hike back to the shuttle. But turning back for a final view, Fox Glacier provided one more memorable scene.


See the rainbow?

Thoroughly exhausted, the shuttle ride back to town was a quiet one. Lost in thought and reflection, only eye contact had to be made before a knowing smile would spread across one's face. It was truly a memorable day, an adventure that will not soon be forgotten.

Unfortunately, the shuttle ride was just about the only chance for rest these particular travelers had. After returning their equipment and changing their clothes, they hastily prepared and ate dinner, knowing they had another long car ride ahead of them.

Again whipping through mountain roads at a "safe" speed, Arthur's Pass awaited them. But while Fox Glacier was executed in brilliant fashion, they would soon learn that not all adventures can be quite as flawless.

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